At the eastern foot of the Helan Mountains, where the range holds back the Gobi, a new generation is making natural wine in the high desert of Ningxia. We follow two of them, and they could not be more different. September Helan is the experimenter: a daughter skin-contacting Riesling and fermenting the family's backyard apricots and apples, chasing what this place might become. Shepherd is the classicist: Michelle and David farming at 1,100 metres inside a nature reserve, making patient, elegant wine and bottling only when it is ready. Two temperaments, one mountain, and between them a picture of what Chinese wine looks like when it is left alone to be itself.