Les Devants 2020

• Light and stony, it sits well with tahu goreng or a bowl of mee rebus.
• Or cold chicken and a green salad, eaten without much ceremony.

Domaine de la Sarazinière began with Claude Seigneuret, who planted the family's first vines at Bussières, in the hills of the Mâconnais, in the 1920s. Almost a century on it is run by the third and fourth generations, Philippe Trébignaud and his son Guillaume.

Their ten hectares are spread across three villages: Bussières, on south-facing slopes of clay and limestone, Serrières on sandy granite, and Fuissé. Some of the Gamay at Bussières was planted between the 1930s and the 1950s. The domaine began converting to organic farming in 2018 and is now certified.

In the cellar Guillaume keeps a light hand: native yeasts, mostly older oak, little sulphur, and the wines unfined and lightly filtered, if at all.

Racine carries two of their reds, both Gamay grown on limestone rather than the granite of Beaujolais next door, which makes for a different wine: finer, chalkier, more savoury. Coline is the younger-vine red, bright and easy. Les Devants comes from the old vines on a south-facing lieu-dit, fully destemmed, macerated for nearly a month and raised in barrel for up to a year: white pepper, dark spice and real structure.