Bianco Solera
Pfalz, Germany · White wine
Bianco Solera is Hannes Bergdoll and Claudiu Dumea's white, and it is built rather than harvested. A solera blends across vintages: each year's wine joins the barrels of the years before it, and half is always held back as reserve, so the wine has no single year on the label and keeps a running memory of all of them. Grapes go in from 2020 onward, some macerated on skins for a fortnight, some for a few days, some pressed straight, each fermented apart before the blend is drawn together. Farming is organic and biodynamic on granite in the South Pfalz, and nothing is fined, filtered or dosed with sulphur. The result is layered and savoury, orchard fruit over a dry, textured base, with the tension that comes of many years in one glass.
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