Quarts de Gastines 2021

Sale price$85.00

Quarts de Gastines is one of Pierre Ménard's dry Chenin parcels in Faye d'Anjou, in the old heart of the Coteaux du Layon. The vines are a study in patience: gnarled, goblet-trained old Chenin with no trellis to lean on, plus a younger patch, digging into grey-green schist streaked with phtanite. Pierre trained as an agricultural engineer and learned in cellars from Château Latour to Tokaj before coming home in 2013 to farm this by hand, treating the vines with plant infusions rather than chemistry. The 2021 is taut and stony, all quince, apple skin, a squeeze of lime, and the flinty mineral line that Anjou schist runs through everything. Give it air; there is real substance beneath the restraint.

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