

Borto 2019
Bordeaux, France · Red Wine · Full Bodied
Borto is the odd one at Ormiale, and deliberately so. Fabrice Domercq and Jasper Morrison introduced it as a micro cuvée in 2018: half Cabernet Franc, half Merlot, destemmed by hand and raised in a rancio sec style, which means oxidative and dry rather than sweet. It runs to sixteen percent and still manages to taste crisp, which is the whole trick of it. Walnut and dried fig, orange peel, a spiced savoury depth and a finish that carries well past the swallow. Nothing about it is conventional for Saint-Émilion, which at this address is rather the point. Serve it before the meal or after it, in a small glass, cool but not cold.
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